How to check the Timing Belt on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T

If you are nearing the 70-80k mile threshold, it would be a good idea to check the status of the Timing Belt on your VW Passat. The Timing Belt is located on the right side of the engine facing the antifreeze coolant tank. It upper part of the main cover has a removable plastic cover. It is fastened in place by a plastic screw in the upper right corner. You can easily access the Timing Belt compartment by removing this plastic cover and inspect the condition of the timing belt. You should look for tiny cracks, missing teeth, dust in the compartment from deterioration of the belt, etc. Inspect the belt's play by twisting it, if you can turn it more than half way around, it may not be as tense as it should be. Regardless, the safest way to ensure that your Passat's Timing Belt does not break on you or shred while driving is by replacing it according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Repairs can be extremely costly otherwise.

How to replace the Purge Valve on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T

                                                         

2006 VW Passat 2.0T EVAP Purge Valve

I had trouble starting my 2006 VW Passat 2.0T after refueling, especially when the gas tank was near empty. I started noticing that whenever I would stop to refuel my B6 Passat even at a quarter tank, it would take multiple attempts at starting and I would even depress the gas pedal a few times to get it started. However, I could drive it for a few minutes after refueling, turn off the engine, and it would start up without any hesitation for days, until the next refueling. So to make a long story short, I found out that the EVAP Purge Valve was causing this problem. I replaced it with a Genuine 2006 VW Passat 2006 Purge Valve and the starting problem was solved. The Purge Valve controls the flow of vapors from the EVAP system to the intake manifold.  The OEM 2006 VW Passat Purge Valve is not expensive and can be found in the $20 price range. The VW Passat Purge Valve replacement is quite simple.

STEP 1:  Remove the engine cover to expose the engine. The Purge Valve in located in the front left side of the engine. In the image below, you can see the Purge Valve in the lower mid right side of the picture. The Purge Valve connects two hoses, one from each end, which are fastened by the silver color hose clamps in the image below. Under the right clamp in the image below you can see the harness/colored wires that connect the Purge Valve to the ECM (the main computer of the car). Disconnect this plug and then remove the clamps that fasten the hoses from each end of the Purge Valve. After that, pull the Purge Valve forward, and it will slide off the prong that holds it from the top. In the second image below, you can see this prong protruding through the rectangular rubber holder on top of the Purge Valve.

STEP 2:  Connect the new Purge Valve to the hoses from each end. Fasten the hoses by tightening the clamps gently (they don't need to be very tight), just enough to hold the hose in place. Then slide the Purge Valve onto the metal prong holder and connect the plug that links the Purge Valve to the ECM, Finally, put back the air filter/engine cover on. 

How to replace the Diverter Valve on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T (000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached).

      At about 56,000 miles on my B6 Passat 2.0T , the CEL (Check Engine Light) came on, and when I scanned the car with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
               P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached

When I first bought the B6 Passat 2.0T, it really had power when the turbo kicked in, and now it felt like the engine was revving but you couldn't feel that power that pushed you back in your seat. After some research, I found the following information at ECS Tuning stating that when the 2.0T was introduced, one of the first failing points was the rubber diaphragm in the original diverter valve, even under stock boost pressure.  When the seal fails, the boost escapes past the turbo, causing a large boost leak, which reduces performance.  After many revisions the entire unit was redesigned, and "D" version was introduced,  with a piston in place of the rubber diaphragm.  This is a mechanical design that is more durable and is a great upgrade for all stock or modified 2.0T FSI & TSI engines.

The part number for the Diverter Valve is 06H145710DKT , and the OEM Upgraded Diverter Valve (ES#:263879) can be purchased online from ECS Tuning.

You can see the torn rubber diaphragm at the base of the stock Diverter Valve which is the green one on the left compared to the OEM Upgraded Diverter Valve on the right.

Replacing the Diverter Valve on the B6 VW Passat 2.0T is very simple. It is located behind the engine in front of the firewall, and you can access this part from under the car. An easy way to identify the Diverter Valve is that it is fastened by 3 silver Hex screws and it has an electric connector that plugs into it as displayed in the center of the image below.


 

 

 

 

Disconnect the electric connector first, and then unscrew the 3 silver Hex screws which will release the Diverter Valve part.

  

 

 

 

   

 







Attach the new Diverter Valve, fasten it with the 3 silver Hex screws and connect the electric connecter to the Diverter Valve. You may need to reset the fault code with VAG-COM.

How To Replace the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0 T.

Changing the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on your VW yearly is a very good practice especially if you suffer from seasonal allergies or commute in an area with lots of construction and road work. The filter element is not an expensive repair at all. You can purchase an OEM Air Cabin (AC) Filter with discounted prices ranging from $11-$18 for a replacement part, and a yearly replacement interval. Why not eliminate unpleasant odors and enjoy cleaner fresh air while driving your VW.

OEM Air Cabin (AC) Filter 

 



 

 

 

The Air Cabin (AC) Filter is located under the glove compartment in front of the passenger front seat. 

 

 

 

 

 

Start by removing the 2 black plastic knobs that fasten the black foam cover.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the Air Cabin (AC) Filter compartment. You need to slide the black filter base cover to the right first and then pull it down to remove it.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the Air Cabin (AC) Filter Element.

 

 

 

 

 

Place a plastic bag or cover beneath the filter, then pull the Air Cabin (AC) Filter element down to remove it. By doing so, you will not have the dirt and debris from the filter falling on the passenger side foot compartment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Insert vertically the new Air Cabin (AC) Filter Element

 

.

 

 

 

 

Place the filter base hooks into the filter slots as shown in the images below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Push the filter into the compartment completely and then fasten the base by sliding it to the left side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put the foam cover back into place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fasten the foam cover by locking in the 2 plastic black knobs.

 

 

How to replace the Strut Mount & Spring Seat on a 2004 VW Jetta.

An easy way to find out when you need to replace your Strut Mounts is by visually inspecting the Stop component of the strut from the engine compartment as illustrated in the images below. The first image shows the Stop Component of the strut elevated which indicates that the Strut Mount is worn out. While a healthy Strut Mount will not let the Stop Component of the strut move much as illustrated in the second image.



Elevated Stop Component of Strut (Worn Strut Mount)

Normally Positioned Stop Component of Strut (Normal Strut Mount)

Strut Mount Comparison (Worn vs. New)

STEP 1: Remove the tire to access the front suspension compartment.

This is the Spring and Strut of the front suspension.

Strut Spring Compressor Tool

STEP 2: Carfully place the Strut Spring Compressor Tool along each side of the Strut Spring. Then, start compressing the Strut Spring carefully by working both sides in an alternating fashion.

One thing to pay attention to is that the end of the Strut Spring has a designated groove that it ends in.

STEP 3: Now you need to remove the Stop Component of the Strut by using a special Socket Wrench as illustrated below and a 7 MM Torx Bit.

After removing the Stop Component of the Strut, you can now visualize the Strut Mount from the engine compartment side.

STEP 4: Detach the ABS & Brake Sensor Wire Bundle from the attaching hooks on the right side of the Strut.

STEP 5: Unscrew and detach the metal bracket carefully using a flat head screwdrive to prye it out of its attaching slot.

Now you have exposed the bolt and nut that fasten the Strut of the front suspension.

STEP 6: By using 2 Socket Wrenches in opposite directions undo the Bolt and Nut assembly that fastens the Strut into its seat.

STEP 7: You may want to spray some WD-40 where the Strut fits into its seat and then with the help of a prye bar, carefully pull it out of its seat by applying downward pressure on the seat to release the Strut.

You may want to remove one of the bolts that fasten the Sway Bar Link inorder to be able to press down the suspension with a prye bar to facilitate the removal of the strut from its seat.

STEP 8: After you have removed the Strut out, unscrew the nut with the 7MM Torx Bit & socket wrench. Then remove the Strut Mount, Strut Bearing, and Spring Seat in the following order.

STEP 9: After removing the Strut Mount, Bearing, and Spring Seat in the following order, remove the compressed Strut Spring. Then remove the Strut Boot and inspect the Bumper and shaft surface to make sure they are not damaged and that the shocks are not leaking oil.

STEP 10: Place the Strut Boot back on the Strut and then place back the compressed Strut Spring onto the Strut and into its designated groove at the bottom of the Strut.

STEP 11: Then place the Spring Seat, Strut Bearing, and Strut Mount in the following order and fasten them using the Socket Wrench and 7MM Torx Bit.

STEP 12: Place the Strut back into its normal position and lower it down completely into its seat until you can see a patent passage for the bolt that fastens it into position.

STEP 13: Place the Bolt and Nut that fasten the Strut into position carefully and tighten them accordingly.

STEP 14: Reasseble the Stop Component of the Strut from the Engine Compartment side and tighten with the socket wrench and 7MM Torx Bit accordingly.

STEP 15: Reattach the ABS & Brake Sensor wires into their designated attachment sites at the top and bottom.

STEP 16: Reattach and srew in the metal bracket into its designated attachment site.

STEP 17: Tighten the Sway Bar Link Bolt back into postion. This was removed earlier to allow the suspension to be pressed down with a prye bar inorder to facilitate the removal of the Strut from its seat.

STEP 18: Tighten the nut that fastens the Stop Component of the Strut from the engine compartment. Then place back the plastic round cover that goes on top of it.

STEP 19: Perform a final inspection on all the srews, nuts, bolts, ABS & Brake sensor wires to make sure that everything is tightened and in its proper place.

STEP 20: Put on the tire and tighten the nuts. Finally, lower the jack carefully and observe the Stop Component of the Strut from the engine compartment. It should barely move and shouldn't have a gap as illustrated in the images at the begining of this article.